French Wines

Languedoc

Corbières

Southern France - Languedoc

Domaine d'Aupilhac, Montpeyroux

In the nineteen years that he has run Domaine d’Aupilhac, Sylvain Fadat has become one of the most respected, not to say famous, winemakers in the Languedoc; so well known that the latest edition of the “Oxford Companion to Wine” mentions him by name as a top class maker of single varietal Carignan.

He has maintained two principles from the outset. Firstly, that the wines should be entirely true to and expressive of their terroir – he is highly passionate on this point! Secondly, he seeks to achieve balance in his wines, which in the hot south can be something of a challenge. Ripeness in the grapes is almost a given, but this needs to be offset with a certain freshness. This he does by adding the aforementioned Carignan to the blend. Furthermore, he has never used pesticides and is in conversion to full organic status. His red wines are bottled neither fined nor filtered.

Since we first brought these wines to Ireland, the Domaine has changed in its dynamic somewhat – the Cocalières vineyard, which Sylvain created high on Mount Baudile by lobbing a load of dynamite over his shoulder, is now producing lovely fruit. This shows well in the eponymous cuvée, but even more so with ‘La Boda’ (meaning ‘the marriage’ in Spanish), which is made from a combination of the best from this and the lower Montpeyroux vineyard.

These are wines of immense character, wonderfully complex and deep. They have superb balance and freshness and whilst they are excellent drunk young, they ‘grow’ in bottle for many years. We all have some stashed away!

Six years after bringing Sylvain and his wines into the family (so to speak), the Domaine remains one of the jewels of this list and we continue to be delighted to offer these wines.

	Red	Vintage	RRP
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc	2004	€20.35
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Le Carignan	2003	€22.55
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Les Cocalières, Coteaux du Languedoc	2004	€23.55
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Cuvee MS Coteaux du Languedoc	2004	€23.55
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, La Boda, Coteaux du Languedoc	2005	€30.25
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Les Plôs de Baumes, VdP Georges de l’Herault	1999	€33.70
	Domaine d’Aupilhac, Les Plôs de Baumes, VdP Georges de l’Herault	2000	€29.80

Mas de Chimères

Octon

Guilhem Dardé is one of the most extraordinary characters in the southern French wine business. Conservationist, activist, Mayor of the village of Octon and owner of one the most sensational moustaches one may ever encounter, he has made his own wine on his twelve hectares since 1993, when he withdrew from the local co-operative. His lands are to the west of the Lac du Salagu, on ancient volcanic rock made bright red by the high iron content.

The wines, like their maker, are full of character, each with a different style. The Cuvée Marie et Joseph is made from pure old vine Carignan. It is an easy going wine, very fruity and juicy with a touch of spice on the finish. L’hérétique is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a little Syrah in the mix; this is rather more tannic and needs some ageing before coming to its best. The AOC itself is Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, one of the classic southern combinations. It has broad fruit on the nose, warmth and fullness on the palate and a long lingering finish.

	White	Vintage	RRP
	Muscat Petits Grains Sec 2006	2006	€13.95

	Red	Vintage	RRP
	Cuvée Marie et Joseph, (Carignan ) VdP Coteaux du Salagou	2005	€15.35
	L’Heretique, (Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah) VdP Coteaux du Salagou	2005	€16.30
	Mas des Chimères, Coteaux du Languedoc	2005	€18.25

Faugerès

L'Ancienne Mercerie

Faugères, with only 2000 hectares under the vine, is one of the smallest of the named crus in the Languedoc. The soils are entirely schistous and this makes the vines throw their roots very deep, extracting the most from the terroir. This domaine, a fairly recent addition to our list, typifies the approach that characterizes the best of the producers in the region. It is a family owned domaine which for many years sold its grapes to the local co-op but is now run by the son of the house along with his wife. Their objective is to make wines of high quality, in small quantities. Their domaine is ten hectares in size which they feel is the perfect balance for this ideal. There is no doubt that Natalie and Francois Caumette have achieved their aims. Wines from Faugères are often too mineral, giving them a hard edge, but here there is a wonderful clarity and purity of fruit and flavour; they are well rounded, balanced and integrated. We commend them most highly as does the French press, and they are already proving to be a very popular addition to our folio.

Faugères, with only 2000 hectares under the vine, is one of the smallest of the named crus in the Languedoc. It is high in the foothills of the Cévennes, about 250 metres above sea level, overlooking the plain that runs to the Mediterranean. The soils are entirely schistous, slate to you and me! This may range from big plates to the very brittle, friable type called ‘frites’ on which the best vines are grown. The plants are forced to throw their roots extremely deep for moisture and consequently they extract the maximum possible from the terroir. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault are used for red wines, though the latter is mainly for rosés. Since the middle of the last century, when most of the producers in the south were simply adding to the European wine lake, the production in Faugères has been tilted at quality rather than quantity. The area has an above average number of young dynamic producers seeking to improve matters further. Natalie and François Caumette typify this approach. Their produce once went to the co-op, but since the millennium this husband and wife team have run his family domaine with the intention of making small quantities of wine, to the highest of standards. They have ten hectares, which they consider to be the perfect size for their aims – small enough to control themselves, large enough to be economic. There is no doubt that they achieve their wishes. The terroir in Faugères often causes a hard-edged, over minerality, but these two wines have a clarity of fruit and flavour and are balanced, rounded and integrated. The French Press loves them; so do we and we think you will too!

	Red	Vintage	RRP
	Les Petites Mains 2005, AOC Faugères	2005	€15.25
	Cuveé Couture 2004, AOC Faugères	2004	€21.95

Corbières

Château Hauterive le Haut

Corbières is one of the largest and most geophysically varied of the Languedoc appellations; this Château is in the northern sector, in the prestigious sub-region of Boutenac. The terroir here is divided into four types, two of which, sandstone and ‘molasses’ under the big pebbles known as galets, particularly favour the old-vine carignan which characterizes the wines of this enclave. The wines presented are 50% carignan, with syrah, grenache and mourvèdre in the mix; the Faiti is made entirely from old vine grapes. Both display the core of intense, concentrated fruit so typical of good Corbières, offset by subtle oaking. Although not introduced until late September 2007 the reaction to these wines was so good that they became one of the “hits” of the year!

	Red	Vintage	RRP
	Chateau Hauterive le Haut, Cuvée Tradition (füt de chêne)	2005	€14.00
	Chateau Hauterive le Haut, Faiti	2004	€19.80