Media Coverage 2006/7

German Class - from an article by Joe Breen
The country's red producers have been doing their homework

A snippet caught my eye in Decanter magazine recently. In Germany, it said, "red wine is on the rise, currently standing at 54 per cent of all wine consumed. Production is also increasingly given over to red wine and red grape varieties now account for 37 per cent of German plantings. Germany is the world's third-largest producer of Pinot Noir, with more land under this variety than Australia, New Zealand and Chile combined".

Surprised? We have a particular image of Germany in our heads, and red wine gernerally - never mind the ever-desirable and difficult Pinot Noir - does not feature in it....

...In Germany, where Pinot Noir is known as Spätburgunder, plantings of the grape have increased hugely in recent years...That rise reflects the drinking habits of Germans. Red wine, in particular Spätburgunder, is their wine of choice - so much so that German red wine is not exported in any quantity and what does escape is expensive.

A small matter like that is not enough to put off Ben Mason, of the Wicklow Wine Co. Mason believes in Spätburgunder - indeed, in German red wine generally - and has put his money where his mouth is by importing a select number of them, some of which are seriously impressive wines, to judge by a tasting we had at L'Ecrivain, the Dublin restaurant, with its sommelier, Martina Delaney.

This gambit would not win Mason any popularity contests, at least not with his partners in the business - German red wine is an even arder sell that its white cousin. But another Georg Breuer wine, Spätburgunder B 2001, at €34.95 was very fine and Spätburgunder 2005 (€28.95), from a great vintage was awesome in ite earthy complexity.

The Meyer-Näkel wines, from Ahr Valley, were also interesting, none more so that Blauschiffer 2005, at €29.95. all of the bottles are available from www.wicklowwineco.ie - and now, having impressed Delaney, from L'Ecrivain, too.

Bottles of the Week
Spatburgunder B 2001, George Breuer, Rheingau
13.5%, €34.95
This is a beautifully simple, smooth, heady and accomplished wine from a not-so-great vintage. It has a wonderfully light touch, a softness that caresses your palate after its earthy, perfumed nose captivates your senses. Limted supplies, unfortunately, but the 2004 (€38.95) is also very good. From www.wicklowwineco.ie